You are missing some villages that are key to a trip to Provence. This topic has been automatically closed due to a period of inactivity. It hits every spot you'd want to see: Aix-en-Provence, Avignon, Marseille, Bormes-Les-Mimosas, Le Lavandou, St. Tropez, Nice, Cannes, Grasse, Antibes, ze, and Monaco. Rick: They conceived it, like creating the instrumentation for a different composition, a musical composition. The train to deGaulle means you don't have to spend your last night in Paris. Today, the town's many Roman ruins testify to Nmes' former importance. (A nice thing about food tours is that, because theyre squeezing into small shops and restaurants, they max out at only eight or ten people and can depart with as few as three the size of our group on this morning.) Jardin dEt Easel We're all set for cooking. Sabine: Avec plaisir. Take a bus to Vaison-la-Romaine or ride a morning train to Orange (frequent departures), then connect to a less frequent bus to Vaison-la-Romaine, then explore the town's upper medieval village and lower Roman city in the afternoon (sleep in Vaison-la-Romaine; market day is Tuesday, so a Monday arrival is ideal), Day 9: Ctes du Rhne Villages. Rick Steves Rick Steves Provence & the French Riviera Paperback - November 13, 2018 by Rick Steves (Author), Steve Smith (Author) 4.7 out of 5 stars 135 ratings Seems like we should lean towards picking just one town and visiting the other locations from there. U can pvt email if u have specific questions. We spent a day doing Nimes and Arles, a day in Aix (that was when they had the torrential rain last Oct so half of that day was literally a wash). Cannes isn't far from the Nice airport. The best Pont du Gard viewpoints are up steep hills with uneven footing bring good shoes, too. Others are fast-paced and reasonably priced. But if you're in a hurry, they easily save enough time to justify the expense. I prefer to stay in one place and do day trips, so I would recommend St Remy. 12 minutes is plenty of time to make a connection in almost any train station in France, unless you have mobility issues. Rick: If I'm shopping for a wine, I'm often thinking, I think like most Americans of the grape. Aix's university gives the city a youthful energy. Nimes actually makes kind of a poor base compared with other options. The main boulevard, Cours Mirabeau, is designed for the rich and famous to strut their fancy stuff. If you have just five days to spend in Provence, consider taking a road trip or a bike tour: both options allow you to pass through small villages and take in the region's famous scenery, stopping whenever you like to taste wines, tour castles, or snap photos of lavender fields. This is the leading museum in Provence for traditional culture and folklore. They're fun. Deep in the south of France, Provence offers a rich palette of travel experiences: scenic, historic, and cultural. Please comment: 3 nights in Nice (Hotel Royal or another with ocean view); visit Monaco, Villefrance sur Mer via train visit Vence (by train?) Settle in at your hotel, then take a walk along the Promenade des Anglais up to Castle Hill (sleep in or near Nice), Day 2: All Day in Nice. This pool was plumbed to handle prioritizing, prioritizing. To be all alone with your own personal Roman ruin, take a quick detour to the Aqueduct of Barbegal. Rent a Car in France While renting a car isn't an absolute must in the French Riviera, I highly recommend it for Provence. Unlike more bloody bullfights, in Provence the bull who, locals stress, "dies of old age" always prances proudly out of the arena. We are in the beginning stages of planning a 10 day trip to Provence. And we got free lip balm! On y danse, On y danse You can buy the ticket from the kiosk in the station, from a desk in the station (if there is one), or download the SNCF app on your phone (if you'll have a data plan). Steve Smith is the co-author of the Rick Steves Provence & the French Riviera guidebook. Again, more good suggestions. Adam, thank you for the response and forgive me, i often see that questionwhat are your interests. The Forum Square is named for the Roman forum that once stood right here. This bridge was a big deal even outside of its kiddie-tune fame. Visitors enjoy an intimate look at Provenal folk culture, and that includes traditional dress from the 18th and 19th centuries. For short trips between the small towns, you don't need to buy a ticket in advance - the price will be the same. http://www.planetware.com/france/mountains-of-vaucluse-f-az-vau.htm. Take a minivan tour or a taxi (or, in summer, a bus) to Les Baux and have breakfast with a view. In July and August, there are six tours a day through the water channel at the top of the Pont du Gard (4, pay the guide directly, tour is in French and English and takes 30 minutes 10 minutes intro and 20 minutes hiking with commentary, generally starts at the bottom of the hour from 10:30 times are posted at the museum and entry, be sure to check). I thoroughly enjoy public transportation, we have had a few hiccups over our years of traveling, so I am caution. Consider my guidebook's seaside walks in Cap Ferrat, or take the one-hour boat cruise from Nice's port, then spend the afternoon or evening in almost-neighboring Monaco (sleep in or near Nice), Day 4: Inland Villages. Have dinner back in Avignon (sleep in Avignon), Day 8: Vaison-la-Romaine. 2023 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | CST# 2086743 | Spend your day sampling hill towns in the Luberon taste a village market, then drive over the hills to the valley of the Ctes du Rhne. This is some of the most rewarding work for our guidebookand enjoyable, too! Nmes is an hour's drive from the sunny Ctes du Rhne region. We love all history, enjoy art, especially when there is a focus, i.e. But that's just me, I don't want to need a vacation to recover from my vacation. The market feels a little like a bazaar thanks to the many Algerians and Moroccans who call Arles home. We spent a day doing Nimes and Arles, a day in Aix (that was when they had the torrential rain last Oct so half of that day was literally a wash). While the grand city of Rome could afford exotic beasts like tigers and lions from faraway places, smaller towns like Arles made do with snarly local beasts like wild boar, bears, and so on. (I've made a 10 min connection even in the large Lyon part deiu station.) Marseille a tough port city beware. From everyone comments it seems theses towns are ok but Nimes and Ales hold more charm, so i was using Nimes as a base. Where exactly do you mean by the "coast"? Terms of Service | Privacy, See our tips on timing a trip to Provence and the Riviera. All Aix-en-Provence Travel Forum Posts Resources Travel Tips Rail Passes Take a bus north to Vence and St-Paul-de-Vence; stop for a stroll and visit the Fondation Maeght and/or Matisse's Chapel of the Rosary or link Vence with Grasse by bus, skipping St-Paul-de-Vence to save time (sleep in Vence, or back in Nice), Day 5: Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. To help you get started, we've listed our top picks for where to go in Provence and the French Riviera, and our plan for your best two-week trip. Did a great small town loop, and loved visiting as many as possible. Tour little Crestet and take a walk above Gigondas (sleep in or near Vaison-la-Romaine), Day 8: Orange and Chteauneuf-du-Pape. Sometimes if can't be avoided to leave valuables in a car. Built between 1171 and 1185, it was strategic one of only three bridges crossing the mighty Rhne in the Middle Ages, important to pilgrims, merchants, and armies. It's played in every village on gravelly courts kept just for this purpose. Les Baux is a must see, very spectacular cliff-side fortification very close to St Remy. I am interested in Gigondas for the wine education they offer. 07/03/14 11:15 AM 16890 posts You are the perfect candidates to add a stay in Marseille. This map is excerpted from the guidebook Rick Steves' Rome by Rick Steves and Gene Openshaw. Gordes and Roussillon are a must. My friend and fellow tour guide Sabine Leteinturier is joining us to be sure I get the fine points of Provenal culture just right. Sabine: Terroir describes the physical condition, the climatic condition of where the vineyard is. I also wonder if you would not be happier in a smaller town such as Isle or Arles, or perhaps just Gigondas, since you will have a car. of some tours here ), you'll miss out on many small towns worth your time if you don't have a vehicle. Historians figure that this mill produced enough flour each day to feed 12,000 hungry Romans. To help you get started, we've listed our top picks for where to go in France, and our plan for your best three-week trip. We travelled with luggage in ours while changing towns. Its river was split into canals to drive waterwheels, which powered the town's 19th-century factories and textile mills. One itinerary I decided against, left me 12 mins to make a train connection, not confident that was doable.When connections are necessary are the trains on close platforms? The first 33 people get in. Les Baux was really neat and Rousillon was gorgeous. Good guidebooks list market days and travelers who plan well enjoy the most vivid experience. You can still visit the places that inspired him, like this hospital courtyard. (The spirit of Revolutionary France is alive here today: taxes are high, and formerly aristocratic families must now share, like good citizens.). We are flying in and out of Nice at the end of September. I wouldn't regret spending a night in any of those places, though I agree there are negative aspects to any one-night stop. There are two types of TGV: OUIGO and INOUI (or TGV). It's both advertising "Pierre's Ptisserie" offers 100 and encouragement for the fighters. Whether you're in search of the magic light like Van Gogh, perhaps the best Roman ruins anywhere, a bloodless bullfight, lessons in boules, or just the right wineProvence has it all. To travel from Nmes or Avignon to CDG, you will want to take a TGV. This is part of a 30-mile long channel a man-made river flowed through this for 400 years. Until next time, keep on traveling. It's a mix or blend of anise and other herbs and you cut it, dilute it, according to taste. They determined that the temple was built to honor Caius and Lucius, the grandsons of Emperor Augustus. In late March, spring finally arrived. Thanks for your advice. Sabine: Wait until you taste those wines. Watch on. Join in, try the olivessniff that lavender of Provence. For example, the calendar rather than 7-day weeks, with months of 30 or 31 days (not to mention the weird February thing) was turned into 12 months of 30 days each (divided into three ten-day weeks), with five days left over for service to your country. But of course, slow roads come with more memories. Take a joyride through the Camargue (but if it's summer, when flamingos are scarce and mosquitoes aren't, skip it and visit Les Baux instead). Teaming up with my guidebook co-author, Steve Smith, every day its a different city: Lyon, Aix, Marseille, Avignon, Arles. The water needs of Roman Nmes grew beyond the capacity of its local springs. The house had four rooms, including a small studio and the cramped trapezoid-shaped bedroom made famous in paintings. (Honestly, St Remy is not really all that noteworthy unless you are there on market day. Contemporary Avignon prospers behind its mighty medieval walls. This was the most fortified palace of the time with 10-foot-thick walls, it was a symbol of power. Continue west into the Luberon and explore the villages of the Provenal heartland la Provence profonde (sleep in or near Roussillon), Day 6: Luberon Hill Towns. The other tries to knock away the opponent's boules. Both villages are small and can easily be explored in a day. Day trip from Avignon to Aix en Provence Sevilla's Barrio Santa Cruz 3 (extra) days in Aix-en-Provence: suggestions please! Seven popes, artists such as Vincent van Gogh and Paul Czanne, and author Peter Mayle all enjoyed their years in Provence. In tumultuous medieval times, locals bricked up the arches, turning the stadium into a fortified town over a hundred humble homes were crammed within its circular defenses. We're planning to go towards the end of April 2014 so we're truly in the beginning stages but with your advice it looks like we're on the right track and only have to decide whether to split our 9 nights between Arles and a Luberon town or whether to spend the entire 9 days in Luberon (St.Remy?). Sabine: This is goat cheese. We do our research in advance so we can make better decisions while there. Arles Once-important Roman outpost, now a bustling town famous for its market days, ancient amphitheater, and as a site that inspired Vincent van Gogh. We must spend one night in Avignon and Aix as that is part of the bike Itinerary. Get ready fornot a yearbut an exhilarating half hour in Provence. In Provence we have goat cheese, not cow's cheese. I'd love to go back for a week. Aix thrived thanks to its aristocratic population. Aix's farmer's market is a classic Provenal scene rustic farmers selling fresh produce under the shade of graceful plane trees. Also, good idea to return the car to another town. Sabine: For French wine really you do not have an indication of the grape, but what you will have on the label is where the wine is coming from. 2023 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | CST# 2086743 | Terms of Service | Privacy Policy. The regional bus service (Edgard and ZOU!) If you've seen the model of this eight-tiered mill in Arles' Ancient History Museum, the milling is easy to visualize making a visit here quite an exciting experience. Its so fascinating to actually see the layers of history here. Not much to do there in case of inclement weather in April, but you'll have a car. The higher holes which got wet only when the supply was plentiful routed water to the homes of the wealthy, to public baths, and to nonessential fountains. The emperor's agenda was to create a populace that was thoroughly Roman enjoying the same activities and the same entertainment, all thinking as one. is less frequent, but also decent, and very cheap. Hotel ideas, missing any "not to miss: towns? In a side chapel was this faded painting from 1789: a triangle within a sunburst, celebrating reason rather than religion. And it's not so strong. In 1309, the French-born pope Clement V decided to move the papacy from Rome to Avignon. For a tourist, Aix is delightfully free of must-see museums or ancient ruins. It goes from mild to stronger in taste with age. I think you should consolidate your overnights to two base locations: Arles and one of the Luberon towns. Its rooms are quiet and comfy and many come with views. Rick: No way. Then day tripping somewhere from Nimes. He palled around with (and painted) his mailman and a Foreign Legionnaire. Also, since you only have four days, I'd skip the Calanques and just concentrate on central Provence--there's so much to see there. While its cities are packed with important sights, Provenal life feels rooted in its countryside, small towns, and vibrant markets. Try not to leave things like maps or expensive looking items in the back/front seat (which you should really do anywhere). Possible day expeditions from from Arles: Nimes and the Pont du GardAvignon and OrangeLes Baux and St RemyCamargue Possible day expeditions from Luberon: Luberon towns Possible day expeditions from either Marseilles and AixGigondas, Seguret, Vaison la Romaine, Suzette, and/or Isle sur la Sourge I think that with a car you can visit all of these places and more in 10 days. Well-preserved medieval quarters of towns in the South of France all have charming squares filled with charming restaurants. Provence May 7, 2018 Video: Checking Every Detail in Aix-en-Provence Bonjour from Aix-en-Provence, France a town that becomes even more delightful if, as you explore its charming old center, you are armed with a little extra information. If you do this tour, notice the massive calcium buildup lining the channel from over 400 years of flowing water. The beauty of this market is its international flavor, reflecting how Provence remains a crossroads of Mediterranean cultures: paella from Spain, fragrant mint leaves for tea, spices from North Africa. Cours Mirabeau remains the place for tendance that's trendiness. Fly out of Marseille today or, if leaving from Nice, drive to Antibes and spend your final day and evening there (sleep in Antibes). It's entertaining to watch especially if you understand the rules. You will have no problem filling 4 nights/5 days. Like Nmes, industrial Avignon was thoroughly water-powered. Coming from the gray skies and flat lands of the north, Vincent was bowled over by everything Provenal: the sun, bright colors, rugged landscape, and raw people. I recently spent five nights there as a base of operations in Provence, but it isn't really a must-see place on its own except perhaps for its Roman ruins. We'll marvel at an ancient aqueduct, savor Ctes du Rhne wine in its birthplace, experience the quintessential Provenal market, play a little boules, follow in the footsteps of Van Gogh, and dodge bulls in a 2,000-year-old arena. Vincent arrived in Arles on February 20, 1888, to a foot of snow. Sur le Pont d'Avignon So, in that you have a reference on the soil, the slope, how much sun it gets. I struggle to understand the different trains. Enjoy market day this morning, then take a train to Avignon. During that period Avignon grew from a quiet village to a powerful city. Thanking in advance. You can still see the original stones, a thin layer of mortar that waterproofed the channel, and, after centuries of use, a thick mineral build up. This topic has been automatically closed due to a period of inactivity. We prefer the small towns rather than the big ones so didn't bother with Aix or Marseille, Avignon or Nimes. All over Europe, food tours are trendy. That is why it takes an extra half hour to take the local to Avignon and the shuttle to Avignon TGV; then you have to wait for 45 minutes for the TGV to de Gaulle. The Calendal provides just the mix of comfort and economy I look for when researching my guidebooks. (Todays TGV system continues that trend.) Orange is an easy visit, Arles reachable by car, plenty of driving options. Take the train or bus to nearby Villefranche-sur-Mer, explore, and have lunch. Start your day touring the Roman theater in Orange and consider a quick stop in Chteauneuf-du-Pape. I would prefer experiencing that part of Provence to driving to the coast, but it all depends on your preferred style of travel. 10/5 - Day and night in Avignon Take these between towns, e.g., from Nmes to Arles, or Avignon to Carpentras. The wealthy fled the city, and Aix slumbered through most of the 1800s. Can't cook without it. Join tour guide and guidebook coauthor Steve Smith as he takes us through bountiful Provence markets and . Very interesting. Inviting pedestrian streets and caf-filled squares give it a relaxing charm. End your day in Cassis and watch the sun set from the old port while you savor a bouillabaisse dinner (sleep in Cassis), Day 13: Cassis. Most villages have winemaking co-ops, offering a handy one-stop place to taste the various wines. Enjoy our live Monday Night Travel party with this video recorded on July 17, 2023. This is the very end of the aqueduct, and water would tumble out of this hole and fill this pool. When it reopens after a long renovation (some time in 2019), it is expected to resume its place as one of the top attractions in Arles. It survives much as it was: narrow for traffic, and very wide for pedestrians who would promenade under their elegant mansions. But, in the smaller towns (like Nimes, Arles and Avignon), there are not so many platforms, and the stations are small. Allied bombs destroyed much of the city in World War II. I am guessing you are not renting a car for the last few days (which is perfectly OK) but if you did you could drive it to the Avignon (or Nimes) TGV from any nearby town and return it there the morning of your return. Your original ticket will still be valid (you don't have to buy another ticket or pay more), and you only need to talk to the (very helpful) station staff to get a new seat assignment if it was as TGV. It was painted yellow inside and out, and Vincent named itThe Yellow House. In the distance, the painting shows the same bridges you see today, as well as a steam train which was a rather recent invention in France, allowing people like Vincent to travel greater distances and be jarred by new experiences. You could do a day trip to Cassis. In those days, a short walk from Place Lamartine led to open fields. You can see a little social compassion designed into the water-distribution holes. We did take a day to go to the Camargue, our longest drive. Avignon Fourteenth-century residence of the popes, today a youthful city with atmospheric cafs, lively squares and pedestrian areas, and a famous broken bridge. I'd love to go back for a week. These 2 weeks in a different neighborhood will be a fun way to revisit Paris. Nearly 2,000 years ago, gladiators fought wild animals here to the delight of 20,000 screaming fans more than 30 rows of stone bleachers extended all the way to the top of the vacant arches that circle the arena.
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